BACK TO THE LAND -
BASIC GARDENING GUIDE
At this writing, here in Virginia, spring is revealing herself. The milder temperatures of late that are following the snowiest winter in years, giving a respite, but not deliverance, from the very real possibility of much more wintry weather to come.
I haven't received my gardening and plant catalogues in the mail yet. And this is the time of year it helps get me through the next month or so, by planning and imagining this coming growing season's gardens.
So..I scouted around for some basic guidance..( in our own garden we grow in the organic method) please take note that some of the information presented here I assimilated from various sources, especially including my own life experiences. Some of this gardening info touches on a variety of growing environments in the contiguous 48; including my short lived experience as a northern plains gardener. So, keep in mind any variation that may affect where your garden is in relation to the standards of growing zones.
I found it a pleasant task to research this basic gardening guide( next best thing to thumbing through a catalogue or green-thumbing it in the soil itself).
And so I submit this somewhat random presentation to you, for your planning and imagining.
One more thing, the referrals for purchasing are not an endorsement for that supplier. Just some options offered. For more information from any of these suppliers, please click on their logo. Enjoy getting your hands "good dirty."
A.Floyd Gardner
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(SEVEN SPRINGS FARM IS FLOYD COUNTY BASED AND ALL ORGANIC)
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GO directly to the general gardening reference guide below>>
Organic Gardening Basics
what does it mean to garden organically?
The simple answer is that organic gardeners don't use synthetic fertilizers
or
pesticides on their plants. But gardening organically is much more than
what you
don't do. When you garden organically, you think of your plants as part
of a whole
system within Nature that starts in the soil and includes the water supply,
people,
wildlife and even insects. An organic gardener strives to work in harmony
with
natural systems and to minimize and continually replenish any resources
the
garden consumes. Organic gardening, then, begins with attention to the
soil. You
regularly add organic matter to the soil, using locally available resources
wherever
possible. And everyone has access to the raw ingredients of organic matter,
because your lawn, garden and kitchen produce them everyday. Decaying plant
wastes, such as grass clippings, fall leaves and vegetable scraps from
your kitchen,
are the building blocks of compost, the ideal organic matter for your garden
soil. If
you add compost to your soil, you're already well on your way to raising
a beautiful,
healthy garden organically.
The other key to growing organically is to choose plants suited to the
site. Plants
adapted to your climate and conditions are better able to grow without
a lot of
attention or input; on the other hand, when you try to grow a plant that
is not right
for your site, you will probably have to boost its natural defenses to
keep it healthy
and productive.
where to begin?
Start by looking around your yard and taking note of which areas get a
lot of sun,
which are shaded all day, and which are sunlit for part of the day. Also,
notice
which spots tend to be damp all the time and which dry out very fast. Now
you can
use that information to choose the site of your new garden and the plants
that will
fare well there. When you select plants that thrive in your conditions,
you have
to care for them less.
Before you buy the plants, you want to prepare the site. Loosen the soil
with a
shovel, garden fork and/or tiller 6 to 8 inches deep, and add several inches
of
compost to it. If the soil is sandy, mix in an extra helping of compost.
In most
climates, vegetables, fruits and herbs grow best in raised beds, which
are built up 4
to 6 inches above the surrounding ground. Most flowers thrive in raised
beds, too.
The soil in raised beds drains quickly so plants never sit in water, and
the soil
warms up fast in spring.
You can build a raised bed by adding a lot of organic matter to the soil
and fluffing
up the soil with a garden fork, then raking soil from the areas that will
be paths up
onto the beds. Many gardeners like to enclose their raised beds in wooden
or
plastic frames; others just mound up the soil. (Please don't frame your
garden with
what's commonly called "pressure-treated" CCA wood—it contains arsenic
and
other toxins that can leach into your soil.)
how to get healthy soil
You could say building soil is the defining act of organic gardening. By
regularly
replenishing the nutrients your plants use, you keep the soil productive.
By mixing
organic matter (preferably compost) into the soil whenever possible, you
mimic
Nature's cycles of birth, decay, and rebirth. Ideal garden soil is dark-colored,
smells
kind of sweet, compresses into a loose lump in your hand when moist, and
is full of
earthworms.
Certain soils may need even more of a boost than a regular, liberal dose
of
compost can provide, but before you add anything else to your soil we urge
you to
get a soil test—you'll find a lab in your area where you can get a low
cost test on
our state-by-state (and province by province) listing of soil test laboratories.
The
results of your test will tell you the soil's pH and what nutrients are
out of balance.
With that information, you can choose amendments to bolster the soil. You
can
choose from many organic soil amendments, like bonemeal, greensand or rock
phosphates, all derived from natural sources and each suited to particular
need.
how to control weeds without herbicides
In a word, mulch. Blanket the ground around your plants with shredded leaves,
straw, dry grass clippings, wood or bark chips, newspaper or other degradable
material, and that layer of mulch will block light from reaching weeds
and stop or
slow their growth. (Mulch also conserves moisture and builds your soil
as it
decomposes.) How can you get rid of weeds that are already there? Buy a
good
hoe designed for weeding, such as a stirrup or diamond style hoe, which
allows you
to slice off weeds below the soil surface.
You can suppress the growth of weed seeds early in the season by spreading
corn gluten meal over the area where they're growing. Corn gluten meal,
a
by-product of corn processing that's often used to feed livestock, inhibits
the
germination of weed seeds–bear in mind, once the weeds have gone beyond
the
sprout stage, corn gluten will not affect them. Also, corn gluten doesn't
discriminate
between seeds you want to sprout and those you don't want, so avoid using
corn
gluten meal where and when you've sown seeds. It works best in established
lawns
and perennial beds.
Weeding may seem like an endless battle when you first start your garden,
but
Organic Gardening editors have found that if you diligently use your hoe,
you will
eventually reduce your weed pressures to almost nil. By the way, many of
the
most common weeds–such as dandelions, purslane and lamb's quarters–make
a
delightful addition to your spring salads. Just pull them up when they're
young,
pluck off the tender leaves to eat with other greens and discard the roots.
how to manage insects without pesticides
We certainly understand that many gardeners become anxious when they see
pests
on their plants and want to react decisively when they see their plants
damaged.
But we must remind you of the central principle of organic gardening: growing
plants in harmony with Nature. And insects, even those that eat your plants,
are a
crucial part of that system. When you see insects in your garden, take
some time to
really watch what they're doing. Are they actually destroying the plant
or just
nibbling it a bit? Many plants can outgrow minor damage. Also, in many
cases,
insects attack stressed out plants. Do you have enough healthy plants to
spare the
sickly ones? Can you restore sickly plants to robust health so they can
resist insect
attack? The best defenses against insect attack are preventative measures.
Grow
plants suited to the site and they'll be less stressed out. Don't let them
be too wet,
too dry or too shaded. Design a diverse garden, so that pests of a particular
plant
won't decimate an entire section of the garden.
Most importantly, encourage the natural predators of pest insects to hunt
in your
garden–beneficial insects (such as the common ladybug), birds, frogs and
lizards
control pests by eating them. You can make your garden hospitable for your
natural
allies by keeping a water source (just a dish-full, if that's all you've
got) nearby for
them and by not wiping out the entire pest population with a pesticide,
sending the
beneficials elsewhere in search of food. Also, grow plants with small blossoms
like
sweet alyssum and dill, which attract predatory insects who feed on flowers'
nectar
between attacks on pests. Barriers such as row covers, netting and plant
collars very
effectively protect crops from pests. Sticky traps and pheromone lures
are another
way to minimize your pest problems without harming other living things
in your
garden. You'll find row covers (the best-known brand is Reemay) and other
barriers,
along with traps and the like at your local garden center and in mail-order
catalogs.
Finally, if you need to react quickly to an acute pest invasion you can
choose from
several natural products that affect specific insects, won't harm humans,
pets or
wildlife, and that degrade quickly in the environment. Among the best of
those
products is Bacillus thuringiensis, a naturally occurring bacteria that
you apply to
your plants to disrupt the digestion of caterpillars and other leaf-eaters.
Be sure to
identify the pest positively before you buy this product because each strain
of Bt
affects specific kinds of insects. Horticultural oils, insecticidal soaps
and garlic
and/or hot pepper sprays also work well against many pests.
how to control plant diseases without fungicides
The best way to avoid plant diseases is to choose varieties that resist
them—look
on the tags at the garden center or in catalog descriptions for mention
of disease
resistance. Then be sure to put those plants in the conditions they thrive
in,
because a stressed-out plant is more susceptible to disease. Many fungal
diseases are encouraged by constant moisture and too little air circulating
around
plants. To remedy that, plan your garden with enough room to accommodate
full-grown plants, because water evaporates more slowly and air doesn't
circulate
well among crowded plants. And water your garden beds deeply and then allow
the top level of soil to dry out before watering again. If diseases do
appear, remove
afflicted leaves (or entire plants) from your garden as soon as possible.
what fertilizers to use to feed my plants
Organic gardeners work to build nutrient-rich soil by continually adding
organic
matter (particularly compost) to the soil rather than feeding plants directly.
Mixing
well-rotted farm animal manures (especially cow, horse and chicken manure)
into
the soil provides an abundant supply of nitrogen to your plants. Nitrogen
is the key
nutrient plants use for growing leaves. If you can add an inch or so of
compost or
manure to your garden each year, you probably don't need any additional
fertilizers. You'll see a lot of different packaged organic fertilizers
in garden centers
and mail-order catalogs. Many derive their nitrogen boost from fish or
feather
meal–in both cases, the ingredients typically are food processing waste.
The best
of these fertilizers are "slow-release" foods that nourish plants incrementally
as they
decompose in the soil. Though fertilizer made from municipal sludge (sometimes
called "biosolids") is often sold as "organic," we discourage gardeners
from using it
because research has found that this sludge contains heavy metals that
can build
up in your soil. To give your plants a more immediate boost or for feeding
those
growing in soil that is more difficult to amend (like plants in containers),
you can
use liquid fertilizers that are commonly made from fish processing waste
combined
with mineral-rich seaweed (often kelp). You'll find these liquid fertilizers
as
concentrates that you mix with water and apply directly to plants' leaves.
fertilizers to feed my plants
Organic gardeners work to build nutrient-rich soil by continually adding
organic
matter (particularly compost) to the soil rather than feeding plants directly.
Mixing
well-rotted farm animal manures (especially cow, horse and chicken manure)
into
the soil provides an abundant supply of nitrogen to your plants. Nitrogen
is the key
nutrient plants use for growing leaves. If you can add an inch or so of
compost or
manure to your garden each year, you probably don't need any additional
fertilizers. You'll see a lot of different packaged organic fertilizers
in garden centers
and mail-order catalogs. Many derive their nitrogen boost from fish or
feather
meal–in both cases, the ingredients typically are food processing waste.
The best
of these fertilizers are "slow-release" foods that nourish plants incrementally
as they
decompose in the soil. Though fertilizer made from municipal sludge (sometimes
called "biosolids") is often sold as "organic," we discourage gardeners
from using it
because research has found that this sludge contains heavy metals that
can build
up in your soil. To give your plants a more immediate boost or for feeding
those
growing in soil that is more difficult to amend (like plants in containers),
you can
use liquid fertilizers that are commonly made from fish processing waste
combined
with mineral-rich seaweed (often kelp). You'll find these liquid fertilizers
as
concentrates that you mix with water and apply directly to plants' leaves.
back to top
GENERAL GARDENING REFERENCE GUIDE
Globe Artichokes
Artichokes, Globe (Cynara scolymus)
Perennial, most people
grow as annual.
2 to 5 ft. tall, 3 to 6
ft. across.
10 hours of full sun per
day min.
Very rich soil
PH:
Mulch: Heavily, To keep
moisture even, To control weeds
Plant seeds: In 4 inch
pots. 6 to 8 weeks before last spring frost. Or in fall 6 to
8 weeks before first
fall frost, mulch heavily , Globe Artichokes will not survive
fall planting in
zone 5 or colder. These can also be dug and stored in a root cellar.
Germination:
Plant sets:
3 ft. apart, rows are 3ft. wide, at the same depth they were in the pot.
Planting hole
should be 24 inches wide by 24 inches deep. Prepare 3 weeks before
setting out
plant sets. Plants should be 4 to 6 inches tall after 6 to
8 weeks.
Be careful
of the small tap root when transplanting.
Fertilize: Sidedress every
2 weeks with fish emulsion or manure tea.
Water: Even water 1 inch
per week.
Days to harvest: Aprox.
180 days from seed.
Days to seed :
Harvest tips: Cut immature
flower buds. Cutting all buds will help next years crop.
Globe Artichokes are
heavy feeders, they need very loose soil, put plenty of compost
and extra potassium
in planting hole 24 inches wide 24 inches deep 3 feet apart.
Avoid getting soil
in crown of plant.
Save your seed: Globe Artichokes are usually propagated by root division
in the home garden. Save you best plants. Globe Artichokes
are very attractive to bees. Seed is not stable, even two flowers
on the same plant will get you a wide divergence of plants mostly useless.
They do not selfpollinate easily, you can bag the flowers but every day
you must brush the tops of the blossom down the style to the ovule.
Do not let other flowers go to seed as they'll become a difficult weed.
Seed Storage Life: Globe Artichoke
seed will stay viable for 7 years if kept in a
sealed container in a dry,
dark place at 50 F.
Bare root supplier: The Giant Artichoke
11241 Merritt St.
Castroville, CA 95012
(408) 633-2778
Jerusalem Artichokes
Artichoke, Jerusalem (Helianthus tuberosa)
Perennial: hardy to zone 3 or
4.
Size: Varies 1 to 12 ft. tall,
spreading by root highly invasive.
Light shade to full sun.
Any soil
PH:
Mulch: To keep down weeds.
Planting roots: Replant smaller
tubers or cut pieces (like a potato) after harvesting
in fall. Plant 1
Ft. apart, Rows are 1 Ft. wide. 2 to 3 inches down.
Fertilizer: A leaf mulch will
be all they need.
Water: Drought tolerant.
Harvest tips: Dig roots when
they are large enough for you to want to use in the fall.
Will store 1 to 2 months
in a good root cellar, or all winter in the ground kept from
freezing with a mulch.
Storage Temp:40 degrees F.
Storage Humidiy: High
Jerusalem Artichokes contain
inulin { not insulin } as a form of carbohydrates.
They're 100% starchless
and store there sugar as levulose like honey does.
They are high in potassium
and thiamine.
Save your seed: Jerusalem Artichokes are easily replanted in fall.
Jerusalem Artichoke leaves and tubers make
good livestock or poultry feed.
Asparagus
Asparagus: (Asparagus officinalis)
Perennial: Hardy zone 4, Zone
3 with care.
5 to 6 Ft. tall 2 to 3 Ft. across.
8 hours of sun min.
Very Rich soil
PH: 6.2 - 6.8
Mulch: Heavily to keep cool and
weed free ( Spotted and Striped Asp. Beetle both over
winter in mulches but I
just run the chickens into the patch in spring. Or I hand
pick. "All male"
Asparagus keeps Spotted Asp. Beetle under control because it has no
fruit for them to pupate
in.
Plant seeds: Seeds are small.
Lightly cover with fine seed staring mix. You'll find
only 6 seeds per berry.
Starting asparagus from seed is not for the beginner,
planting bare root is easier
and faster to first crop.
Germination:
Planting roots: The old fashioned
way of planting the roots in deep trenches is
unnecessary. It has
been demonstrated that in a few years the roots come up near the
surface anyway. Good
soil preparation is essential.Dig in 25 Bushels of rotted manure
per 100 ft. row.
Rows are 5 Ft. wide. Dig in as deep as possible at least 2 Ft.
(deeper is better).
Dig a trench 8 inches deep. Spread out roots and plant crown up
12 inches apart.
Cover with 2 to 3 inches of soil. Water. After plants have
been up
for 2 weeks slowly fill
in trench 2 inches at a time throughout the summer. This is a
lot of work but don't short
cut. A good asparagus patch comes from good soil
preparation.
Fertilize: Water with fish emulsion
every 2 weeks in spring and spread as much compost
as possible in fall.
Water: 1 inch per week.
Days to harvest: Spring harvest
Days to seed : aprox.100
Harvest tips: You can start harvesting
all male varieties the 2nd year, other types the
3rd year. The first
year you pick will be a very light Harvest. You may continue to
pick all spears as long
as the largest of these is more than 1/2 inch in diameter.
Storage: Asparagus keeps about
2 weeks in the Cold Room but so is best stored by canning,
freezing or drying.
Save your seed:
Pollination: Bees. Asparagus
will self pollinate male flower to female or will cross
any other asparagus.
Isolation: No other Asparagus
(including wild) can be within 2 miles.
Processing: Pick ripe berries
before they drop, rub on screen to free seeds , wash ,
dry.
Seed storage life: Asparagus
seed will stay viable for 5 years if kept in a sealed
container in a dry, dark
place at 50 F.
Bean, Asparagus: (Vigna Unguiculata)
[Asparagus bean is actually a Pea.]
Also called Yard Long bean.
Annual
9 to 12 Ft. tall similar to a
Pole Bean. Pods 12 to 30 inches long.
8 hours of full sun min.
Average soil fertility.
PH: 6.0 to 7.0.
Mulch: To keep down weeds.
To keep even moisture.
Plant seeds: After soil warms
to 60 degrees F. plant 2 seeds 6 inches apart, 1 1/2
inches down, rows are 2
Ft. wide (make rows wide enough to harvest easily.) Thin to
1 plant 6 inches apart
when they reach 4 inches tall. Or start in 6 inch pots 4 to 6
weeks before last frost.
Germination: 5 to 10 days at
a soil temp. of 60 to 70 degrees F.
Plant sets: If you're starting
ahead, plant sets 6 inches apart at the same depth they
grew in the pots.
Rows are 2 Ft. wide ( make rows wide enough to harvest easy.)
Fertilize: Inoculate with cow
pea rhizobia (Bradyrhizobiun spp.)
Water: 1 inch per week.
Days to harvest: 80 days from
seed.
Days to seed : Aprox. 120
Harvest tips: Taste best when
picked under 1 1/2 Ft. long, when the seeds just begin to
swell. Beyond that
and they get spongy and tough.
Purple and red varieties of
Asparagus beans keep there color when cooked.
Storage: Asparagus beans keeps
about 2 weeks in the Cold Room but so is best stored by canning,
freezing or drying.
Save your seed:
Pollination: Self pollinating.
Isolation: Pollen usually drops
before flower is open. Cross pollination rarely occurs
even when Asparagus beans
are planted close together.
Processing: Pick only dry seeds.
Place in bag or sack. Walk on them to brake shells,
then winnow by throwing
it all in the air on a windy day or in front of a fan. Pick
up beans, hulls go
into compost. Dry beans further buy sealing them in jars with
silica gel packets.
You can tell by trying to dent them with your fingernail, if you
can't they're dry enough.
Then into the freezer they go for 3 days (below 0 degrees
F.) to kill bean weevil.
If they are not dry enough the seed will be damaged. Let
jar warm to room temp.
before opening or they'll pickup moisture through condensation.
Seed storage life: Seed
will stay viable for 4 years if kept in a sealed container in
a dry, dark place at 50
F.
Silica gel is available through Johnny's
Selected Seeds
Foss Hill Road
Albion, Maine 04910-9731
Beans
Bean, Bush: (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Native to Bolivia, Columbia,
Ecuador, Mexico.
Annual
12 to 30 inches tall, 12 inches
across
6 hours of full sun per day min.
Soil: Average
PH: 6.0 to 7.0.
Mulch: To control weeds.
To conserve moisture.
Plant seeds: 1/2 Inch apart,
1 1/2 inches down. Plant 2nd row 6 inches apart. Double
rows are 2 Ft. wide.
Mulch after planting beans are strong enough to push there way
through.
Germination: 3 to 7 days at a
soil temp. of 60 degrees F. min., 75 degrees better.
Fertilize: Inoculate with bean
rhizobia (Rhizobium leguminosarum biovar phaseoli)
Remember, Inoculate lives
6 years in the soil. If you plant were you have inoculated
in the last 6 years you
do not have to reinoculate.
Water: 1 inch per week.
Days to harvest: Varies with
the variety.
Days to seed: Varies with the
variety, save from your best plants and pick when pods
are dry.
Harvest tips: Keep picked for
a longer season.
Storage: Beans keeps about 2
weeks in the Cold Room but so is best stored by canning,
freezing or drying. See
Save you seeds for drying directions. Dry seed keeps for years.
Save your seed:
Pollination: Self pollinating
and perfect.
Isolation: Pollen usually drops
before flower is open. Cross pollination rarely occurs
even when beans are
planted close together.
Processing: Pick only dry seeds.
Place in bag or sack. Walk on them to brake shells,
then winnow by throwing
it all in the air on a windy day or in front of a fan. Pick
up beans, hulls go
into compost. Dry beans further buy sealing them in jars with
silica gel packets.
You can tell by trying to dent them with your fingernail, if you
can't they're dry enough.
Or hit beans with a hammer if it shatters instead of mashing, seeds are
dry enough. Then into the freezer they go for 3 days (below 0 degrees
F.) to kill bean weevil.
If they are not dry enough the seed will be damaged. Let
jar warm to room temp.
before opening or they'll pickup moisture through condensation.
Seed storage life: Seed
will stay viable for 4 years if kept in a sealed container in
a dry, dark place at 50
F.
Bean, Castor: (Ricinus communis)
Perennial zone 9, grow as annual
5 to 12 ft. tall.
8 Hours of full sun per day min.
Average soil fertility.
PH:
Mulch: To conserve moisture.
To control weeds.
Plant seeds: 18 inches apart,
1 inch deep, rows are 18 inches wide
Germination:
Fertilize: None
Water: Even water 1 inch per
week.
Days to seed: 120
Castor bean
seeds are highly poisonous.
I make
a gopher and mole repellent. Mix a Tbls of castor bean oil
with
two Tbls of liquid detergent in a blender until the product has the appearance
of shaving
cream, and add to warm water in a sprinkling can. Moles can not stand
the smell.
Save your seed: Pick bean seeds when brown. They will not cross with other beans in the garden.
Lima beans
Bean, Lima: (Phaseolus lunatus)
[butter bean]
Annual
Size varies with variety from
bush to pole.
10 hours of full sun.
Soil: Good
PH:
Mulch: To control weeds.
To conserve water.
Plant seeds: 2 inches apart,
1 1/2 inches down. Rows are 18 inches apart. Plant with
the eye down.
Germination: 7 days at
a soil temp. of 65 degrees F. Min., 80 degrees F. best.
Plant sets: Lima beans are usually
seeded directly .
Fertilizer: Inoculate with cowpea
rhizobia (Bradyrhizobium spp.) fish emulsion is
sometimes also needed.
Remember, Inoculate lives 6 years in the soil. If you plant
were you have inoculated
in the last 6 years you do not have to reinoculate.
Water: 1 inch per week.
Lima beans need even water.
Days to Harvest: Varies with
variety.
Days to seed: Varies with variety.
Harvest tips: Pick when pods
begin to plump.
Storage: Beans keeps about 2
weeks in the Cold Room but so is best stored by canning,
freezing or drying. See
Save you seeds for drying directions. Dry seed keeps for years.
Save your seed:
Pollination: Lima Beans are self
pollinating. They'll cross with any other Lima Bean.
Isolation: bees love Lima Bean
pollen, separate by at least 1 mile.
Processing:Lima Bean pods pop
open very easily so care should be taken in picking them.
Pick only dry seeds. Place in bag or sack. Walk on them to
brake shells,
then winnow by throwing
it all in the air on a windy day or in front of a fan. Pick
up beans, hulls go
into compost. Dry beans further buy sealing them in jars with
silica gel packets.
You can tell by trying to dent them with your fingernail, if you
can't they're dry enough.
Or hit beans with a hammer if it shatters instead of mashing,
seeds are dry enough. Then
into the freezer they go for 3 days (below 0 degreesF.) to
kill bean weevil.
If they are not dry enough the seed will be damaged. Let
jar warm to room temp.
before opening or they'll pickup moisture through condensation.
Seed storage life: Seed
will stay viable for 3 years if kept in a sealed container in
a dry, dark place at 50
F.
Beans
Bean, Pole: (Phaseolus vulgaris)
Native to Bolivia, Columbia,
Ecuador, Mexico.
Annual
5 to 14 Ft. tall, 1Ft. across
Sun: 7 Hours Min.
Average soil
Ph: 5.5 to 7.0.
Mulch: To control weeds. To conserve
moisture.
Plant seeds: Direct seed; 2 seeds
6 inches apart,1 1/2 inches down, rows are 1 1/2 Ft.
wide. Thin to 1 plant
when 4 inches tall.
Germination: 5 to 7 days at soil
temp. of 60 degrees min 75 degrees better. Untreated
seed will rot at lower
temp.
Plant sets: For an early crop
start 4 weeks before direct seed date in 4 inch pots.
Plant out when soil temp.
reaches 50 degrees.
Fertilize: Inoculate with bean
rhizobia (Rhizobium leguminosarum biovar phaseoli)
Remember, Innoculate lives
6 years in the soil. If you plant were you have inoculated
in the last 6 years you
do not have to reinnoculate.
Water: Even water one inch per
week.
Days to harvest: Varies with
variety
Days to seed: Varies with
variety
Harvest tips: Keep picked for
extended harvest.
Storage: Beans keeps about 2
weeks in the Cold Room but so is best stored by canning,
freezing or drying. See
Save you seeds for drying directions. Dry seed keeps for years.
Save your seed:
Pollination: Self pollinating
and perfect.
Isolation: Pollen usually drops
before flower is open. Cross pollination rarely occurs
even when beans are
planted close together.
Processing: Pick only dry seeds.
Place in bag or sack. Walk on them to brake shells,
then winnow by throwing
it all in the air on a windy day or in front of a fan. Pick
up beans, hulls go
into compost. Dry beans further buy sealing them in jars with
silica gel packets. You
can tell by trying to dent them with your fingernail, if you
can't they're dry enough.
Or hit beans with a hammer if it shatters instead of mashing,
seeds are dry enough.Then
into the freezer they go for 3 days (below 0 degrees F.)
to kill bean weevil.
If they are not dry enough the seed will be damaged. Let
jar warm to room temp.
before opening or they'll pickup moisture through condensation.
Seed storage life: Seed
will stay viable for 4 years if kept in a sealed container in
a dry, dark place at 50
F.
Bean, Runner (Phaseolus multiflorus)
Native to central America
Annual
2 to 6Ft. tall, 1Ft. across
Sun: 8 Hours Min.
Average soil
Ph: 5.5 to 7.0
Mulch: To control weeds. To conserve
moisture.
Plant seeds: Direct seed; 2 seeds
6 inches apart,1 1/2 inches down, rows are 1 1/2 Ft.
wide. Thin to 1 plant
when 4 inches tall.
Germination: 5 to 7 days at soil
temp. of 60 degrees min 75 degrees better. Untreated
seed will rot at lower
temp.
Plant sets: For an early crop
start 4 weeks before direct seed date in 4 inch pots.
Plant out when soil temp.
reaches 50 degrees.
Fertilize: Inoculate with bean
rhizobia (Rhizobium leguminosarum biovar phaseoli)
Remember, Inoculate lives
6 years in the soil. If you plant were you have inoculated
in the last 6 years you
do not have to reinnoculate.
Water: Even water one inch per
week.
Days to harvest: Varies with
variety
Days to seed: Varies with
variety
Harvest tips: Keep picked for
extended harvest.
Save your seed:
Pollination: Self pollinating
and perfect.
Isolation: Pollen usually drops
before flower is open. Cross pollination rarely occurs
even when beans are
planted close together.
Processing: Pick only dry seeds.
Place in bag or sack. Walk on them to brake shells,
then winnow by throwing
it all in the air on a windy day or in front of a fan. Pick
up beans, hulls go
into compost. Dry beans further buy sealing them in jars with
silica gel packets. You
can tell by trying to dent them with your fingernail, if you
can't they're dry enough.
Then into the freezer they go for 3 days (below 0 degrees
F.) to kill bean weevil.
If they are not dry enough the seed will be damaged. Let jar
warm to room temp. before
opening or they'll pickup moisture through condensation.
Seed storage life: Seed
will stay viable for 4 years if kept in a sealed container in
a dry, dark place at 50
F.
Beet
Beet (Beta vulgaris)
Native to Europe.
Biennial
10 to 18 inches tall, 6 to 14
inches across.
8 hours of full sun per day min.
Rich soil
Mulch: To control weeds, to conserve
moisture.
Plant seeds: 2 inches apart,
1/2 inch down, rows are 14 inches apart. Thin to 4 inches
apart.
Germination: 3 to 5 days at a
soil temp. of 80 degrees F, 50 degrees F min.
Fertilize: Mix 2 to 3 inches
of compost or rotted manure into soil 2 weeks before
planting.
Water: Even water, 1 inch per
week.
Days to harvest: Varies
Days to seed : Varies
Harvest tips: Dig fall beets
before frost.
Storage: large beets keep till
spring. Cut tops down to 1 inch and store in root cellar.
Storage Temp: 35 degrees F.
Storage Humidity:high
Beets grown for summer harvest
should be sown in spring. Winter keepers sown in summer,
count back number of days
to harvest.
Save your Seed: Beets produce
seed the 2nd year. Over winter plants in rootcellar. Cull
out abnormal roots.
This is the only way to keep your varieties stable. Replant in
spring. Harvest as
seed turns brown.
Pollination: Self pollinating
but imperfect.
Isolation: 5 miles
Processing: If seed is harvested
as it matures no proccessing is needed. If you harvest
the entire head when most
seed is mature then you will have to winnow.
Seed storage life: Beet seed
will stay viable for 6 years if kept in a sealed container
in a dry, dark place at
50 F.
Broccoli
Broccoli: (Brassica oleracea)
Native to Europe.
Annual
2 Ft. tall , 1 1/2 Ft. across.
6 Hours of ful sun per day Min.
Very rich soil. High in calcium,
potash and nitrogen.
PH: 6.0 to 7.0
Mulch: To conserve moisture.
To control weeds. Most leaves are toxic to brassicas
Plant seeds: To direct seed,
after soil has warmed to at least 60 degrees F. Plant 3
seeds 18 inches apart 1/4
inch down. Rows are 2 Ft. wide. Thin to 1 plant.
To start ahead: Start 6 weeks
before the last frost at a temp like you would tomatoes,
1/4 inch down. When the
first true leaves appear transplant to 4 inch pots and move
to a cooler area. Grow
at 60 degrees F. day, 50 degrees F. nights.
Germination: 5 to 7 days at a
soil temp. of 60 degrees F. Min. 3 days at a soil temp.
of 75 degrees F.
Plant sets: 1 1/2 Ft. apart,
rows are 2 Ft. wide. Set slightly lower than grown in
pots. When air temp.
is 60 to 70 Degrees F.
Fertilize: 4 inches of compost
or manure mixed into soil. Sidedress with fish emulsion
or manure tea once a week.
Water: Even Water 1 inch per
week.
Days to harvest: Varies
Days to seed: Varies
Harvest Tips: Always cut 2 leaves
below head, to force more side shoots.
Save your seed: Many varieties can be grow
as annual, others must be grown as biennial.
Over wintering is done
in the rootcellar.
Pollination: Broccoli is self
pollinating but not perfect. Primarily Pollinated by
insects. Broccoli will
cross with cauliflower, cabbages (except Chinese), Brussels
sprouts, kale, collards
and kohlrabi. A least 30 plants must be grown to maintain a
viable genetic base.
Isolation: 1 Mile
Processing: Collect seeds when
brown and dry.
Seed storage life: Broccoli seed
will stay viable for 5 years if kept in a sealed
container in a dry, dark
place at 50 F.
Brussels Sprouts
Brussels Sprouts:(Brassica oleracea)
Native to Europe.
Biennial
3 ft. tall, 2 ft. across.
6 hours full sun min.
Very rich soil.
PH: 6.5 to 6.8
Mulch: To conserve moisture.
To control weeds. Most leaves are toxic to brassicas.
Plant seeds: Start 6 weeks before
the last frost at a temp like you would tomatoes,
1/4 inch down. When the
first true leaves appear transplant to 4 inch pots and move
to a cooler area.
Grow at 60 degrees F. day,
50 degrees F. nights.
Germination: 5 to 7 days at a
soil temp. of 60 degrees F. Min 3 days at a soil temp. of
75 degrees F.
Plants sets: 2 1/2 Ft. apart,
rows are 2 Ft. wide. Slightly lower than they grew in
the pots.
Fertilize: 4 inches of compost
or manure mixed into soil. Sidedress with fish emulsion
or manure tea once a week.
Water: 1 inch per week.
Days to harvest: Varies
Days to seed: Varies
Harvest tips: Pinch out tops
in Sept. to force sprouts.
Storage: Brussels Sprouts keep
3 months in the root cellar. Harvest with roots on and store
up side down.
Storage Temp:35 F.
Storage Humidiy: High
Save your seed: Brussels Sprouts are biennial.
The plant is over wintered in the
rootcellar replanted in
spring seed will ripen in the fall.
Pollination: Brussels Sprouts
are self pollinating but not perfect. (you need more
than one plant of the same
variety or other variety.) They will cross any other
brassica.
Isolation: 1 mile.
Processing: Let seeds mature
and dry out on the plant. Progressively pick dry pods
from the bottom up.
Remove seeds.
Seed storage life: Brussels Sprouts
stay viable for 4 years if kept in a sealed
container in a dry, dark
place at 50 F.
Cabbage
Cabbage: (Brassica Oleracea)
Native to Europe.
Biennial
2 Ft. tall, 2 Ft. across.
6 hours of sun Min.
Rich soil.
PH: 6.0 to 6.5
Mulch: To conserve moisture.
To control weeds. Most leaves are toxic to brassicas.
Plant seeds: Start 6 weeks before
the last frost at a temp like you would tomatoes,
1/4 inch down. When the
first true leaves appear transplant to 4 inch pots and move
to a cooler area.
Grow at 60 degrees F. day,
50 degrees F. nights.
Germination: 5 to 7 days at a
soil temp. of 60 degrees F. Min. 3 days at a soil temp.
of 75 degrees F.
Plants sets: 2 1/2 Ft. apart,
rows are 2 Ft. wide. Slightly lower than they grew in
the pots.
Fertilize: 4 inches of compost
or manure mixed into soil. Sidedress with fish emulsion
or manure tea once a week.
Water: 1 inch per week.
Days to harvest: Varies
Days to seed: Varies
Storage: Cabbage will keep all
winter and some into summer in a root cellar wrapped in
newsprint.
Storage Temp: 32 degrees F.
Storage Humidity: High
Save your seed: Cabbage are biennial.
The plant is over wintered in the rootcellar
replant in spring slice
head open with an X to release seed stalk. Seed will ripen in
the fall.
Pollination: Cabbages are self
pollinating but not perfect. (you need more than one
plant of the same variety
or other variety.) They will cross any other brassica.
Isolation: 1 mile.
Processing: Let seeds mature
and dry out on the plant. Progressively pick dry pods
from the bottom up.
Remove seeds.
Seed storage life: Cabbage seeds
stay viable for 4 years if kept in a sealed container
in a dry, dark place at
50 F.
Carrot
Carrot: (Daucus carota)
Native to central Asia, and the
near east.
Biennial
8 inches tall, 6 inches across.
6 hours of sun min.
Average soil.
PH: 6.0 to 6.5
Mulch: After seed sprouts, To
conserve moisture. To control weeds.
Plants seeds: 1 inch apart, lightly
covered, rows are 3 inches wide. Thin to 3 inches
apart.
Germination: up to 21 days at
50 degrees. soil temp. 70 degrees better.
Fertilize: None, High nitrogen
causes hairy carrots.
Water: Even water, 1 inch per
week.
Days to harvest: Varies
Days to seed: Biennial
Storage: Carrots keep for me
in the root cellar just loose in a wooden box, some people
have better luck layering
them in sand. Cut the tops back to 1 inch.
Storage Temp: 35 degrees F.
Storage Humidty: high
Save your seed: Carrots are biennial, overwinter
in rootcellar, replant in spring.
Harvest late summer.
Pollination: Carrots are self
pollinating but not perfect. (you need more than one
plant of the same variety
or other variety.) They will cross any other carrot. Queen
Anne's lace is a
wild carrot and will cross. White roots are the dominant orange the
recessive.
Cull white roots in storage before planting for seed.
Isolation: 1/2 mile.
Processing: pick seeds as they
dry on the stalk and screen to remove fuzz.
Seed storage life: Carrot seeds
stay viable for 5 years if kept in a sealed container
in a dry, dark place at
50 F.
Celeriac
Celeriac: (Apium graveolens)
Native to Europe and the Mediterranean.
Biennial.
18 inches tall, 6 inches across.
8 hours of full sun.
Very Rich soil.
PH: 6.5 to 7.0
Mulch: Heavily, Celeriac likes
moist but well drained soil.
Plant seeds: Start seeds 10 to
12 weeks before setting out (late Feb. for me) in flats
1/6 inch deep then transplant
to 3 Cell pacs. Keep moist but Celeriac damps off
easily.
Germination: 7 to 21 days at 70
degrees F. soil temp. Celery needs light to germinate.
Plant sets: 10 inches apart,
rows are 10 inches wide. Don't set out until all long
cold rainy spells are over.
Set out at the same depth as grown in cell pacs.
Fertilize: All the compost you
can get. Your very best soil.
Water: 2 inches per week.
Days to harvest: 80 to 90 days
to maturity.
Days to seed: Biennial.
Harvest tips: Leaves can be used
as celery.
Storage: Leaves can be dried
for winter use. Roots keep till late spring in the root cellar.
loose in a wooden box or
bushel basket.
Storage Temp: 35 degrees F.
Storage Humidity: High
Interplant with onions to drive off carrot rust fly.
Save your seeds: Celeriac is biennial. To overwinter
cut off stems to 1 inch and store in
damp cool rootcellar.
Replant in spring.
Pollination: Celeriac is Self
pollinating but imperfect (you need more than one plant
of the same variety or
other variety.) Celeriac will cross with celery or other celeriac.
Isolation:
Processing: pick seeds as they
dry on the stalk and screen to remove fuzz.
Seed storage life: Celeriac seed
will stay viable for 5 years if kept in a sealed
container in a dry, dark
place at 50 F.
Celery
Celery: (Apium graveolens)
Native to Europe and the Mediterranean.
Biennial.
18 inches tall, 6 inches across.
8 hours of full sun.
Rich soil.
PH: 6.8 to 7.0
Mulch: Heavily, Celery likes
moist but well drained soil.
Plant seeds: Start seeds 10 to
12 weeks before setting out (late Feb. for me) in flats
1/6 inch deep then transplant
to 3 Cell pacs. Keep moist but Celery damps off easily.
Germination: 7 to 21 days at
70 degrees F. soil temp. Celery needs light to germinate.
Plant sets: 10 inches apart,
rows are 10 inches wide. Don't set out until all long
cold rainy spells are over.
Set out at the same depth as grown in cell pacs.
Fertilize: Potash at least one
week before setout. No nitrogen.
Water: 2 inches per week.
Days to harvest: 80 to 90 days
to maturity.
Days to seed: Biennial.
Harvest tips: Can be picked young
for early use. Leaves can be dried for winter use.
Interplant with onions to drive off carrot rust fly.
Save your seeds: Celery is biennial. To overwinter
Is difficult, you must dig plants cut
the tops back to below
the upper leaves and replant in damp sand in your root cellar,
with the crown exposed.
Only the best rootcellars will keep celery till spring, then
replant.
Pollination: Celery is Self pollinating
but imperfect (you need more than one plant of
the same variety or other
variety.) Celery will cross with celeriac or other celery.
Isolation:
Processing: pick seeds as they
dry on the stalk and screen to remove fuzz.
Seed storage life: Celery seed
will stay viable for 5 years if kept in a sealed
container in a dry, dark
place at 50 F.
Corn
Corn: (Zea mays)
Native to Mexico.
Annual
4 to 12 Ft. tall, 12 inches across.
10 hours of full sun per day
min.
Rich soil.
Ph: 6 to 7
Mulch: To conserve water, to
control weeds.
Plant seeds: Direct seed, 12
inches apart 1 inch down. To start ahead, plant in 6 cel
pacs 2 seeds per cell,
thin to 1.
Germination: 5 to 7 days at 73
degrees F. min. soil temp.
Plant sets: 1Ft. in each direction.
Plant in blocks to aid pollination.
Fertilize: Fish emulsion once a week.
Water: Even water 1 inch per
week.
Days to harvest: Varies
Days to seed: Varies
Harvests tips:
I grow very little corn so some
of this info is from friends and books.
Save your seeds: Corn requires a bare min.
of 200 stalks to maintain a viable genetic
base, 300 much better.
You must save seed from as many ears as possible.
Pollination: Corn is Self pollinating
but imperfect (you need more than one plant of
the same variety or other
variety.) Wind pollinated. Corn will cross with any other
corn.
Isolation: 2 miles.
Processing: let dry on stalk.
Then rub off seeds. To use mechanical seed shellers
both seed and cob must
be dry.
Seed storage life: Corn will
stay viable for 3 years if kept in a sealed container in
a dry, dark place at 50
F.
Cucumber
Cucumber: (Cucumis sativus)
Native to East Indies, Middle
East.
Annual.
Vining crop, size varies.
6 hour sun min.
Rich soil.
Ph: 6.0 to 6.8
Mulch: To conserve water, to
control weeds.
Plant seeds: To direct sow, 3
seeds 2 Ft. apart, 1 inch down thin to 2 plants. Row are
3 ft. wide (grown on trellis.)
To start ahead, 2 to 4 weeks last frost plant 3 seeds
1/2 inch down in 4 inch
pots thin to 2 plants. Don't let roots ball.
Germination: 3 days at 73 degrees
F. min. soil temp.
Plant sets: Plant out sets 2
ft. apart.
Fertilize: Fish emulsion once
a week.
Water: 1 1/4 inch per week.
Days to harvest: Varies.
Days to seed: Varies.
Harvest tips: Keep picked for
extended harvest.
Plant Chinese lantern as a trap crop for cucumber beetle. Remember they're invasive.
Save your seeds: Cucumbers have both male and
female blossoms. Female blossoms are
attached the vine with
a miniature fruit.
Pollination: Cucumbers will self
pollinate but should be crossed with another plant to
maintain genetic viability.
Isolation: 1/2 mile or hand pollinate.
Processing: Let fruit Stay on
the vine till over ripe, scoop out seed wash and dry then
place in jars Then add
silica gel.
Silica gel is available through Johnny's Selected
Seeds
Foss Hill Road
Albion, Maine 04910-9731
Garlic
Garlic:(Allium sativum, Softneck and
Allium ophioscorodon, Hardneck)
Native to
Bulb
8 to 20 inches tall, 1 to 3 inches
wide.
8 hours of full sun.
Rich soil.
PH: 6.8
Mulch: To conserve water, to
control weeds. But keep bulb exposed to sun. Its needed
for bulb development.
Plant sets: Mid to late Aug.
plant cloves 6 inches apart, 2 inches down. Rows are
9 inches apart. Mulch for winter.
Fertilize: Fish emulsion once
a week.
Water: 1 inch per week.
Days to harvest: Following Aug.
Days to seed: Following Aug.
Harvest tips: On rocambole, keep
top bulblets cut off for larger bulbs.
Storage: Will store in the Fruit
Cellar till next harvest. Hang in mesh bags.
Storage temp: 35 degrees F.
Storage humidiy: Low
Save your seeds: Garlic will adapt
to local conditions. Always keep your largest best
bulbs.
Kale: (Brassica oleracea)
Native to Mediterranean.
Biennial
2 to 6 Ft. tall, 2 Ft. across.
6 hours of sun Min.
Rich soil.
PH: 6.2 to 6.5
Mulch: To conserve moisture.
To control weeds. Most leaves are toxic to brassicas.
Plant seeds: Start 6 weeks before
the last frost at a temp like you would tomatoes,
1/4 inch down. When the
first true leaves appear transplant to 4 inch pots and move
to a cooler area.
Grow at 60 degrees F. day,
50 degrees F. nights.
Germination: 5 to 7 days at a
soil temp. of 60 degrees F. Min. 3 days at a soil temp.
of 75 degrees F.
Plants sets: 2 1/2 Ft. apart,
rows are 2 Ft. wide. Slightly lower than they grew in
the pots.
Fertilize: 4 inches of compost
or manure mixed into soil. Sidedress with fish emulsion
or manure tea once a week.
Water: 1 inch per week.
Days to harvest: Varies
Days to seed: Varies
Save your seed: kale is biennial. The
plant is over wintered in the ground in zone 6 or
warmer, in the rootcellar
in colder zones replant in spring. Seed will ripen in the
fall.
Pollination: kale is self pollinating
but not perfect. (you need more than one plant
of the same variety or
other variety.) They will cross any other brassica.
Isolation: 1 mile.
Processing: Let seeds mature
and dry out on the plant. Progressively pick dry pods
from the bottom up.
Remove seeds.
Seed storage life: kale seeds
stay viable for 4 years if kept in a sealed container in
a dry, dark place at 50
F.
Lettuce
lettuce: (Lactuca sativa)
Native to Mediterranean and the
Near East.
Annual.
4 to 14 inches tall, 2 to 14
inches across.
4 to 6 hours of sun per day min.
Rich soil.
Mulch: To conserve moisture.
To control weeds.
Plant seeds: To direct sow head
lettuce, sow 2 weeks before last frost, plant 2 seeds
12 inches apart, 1/4 inch
down. Thin to 1 plant. Rows are 18 inches wide. Leaf
lettuce, sow seed 1 inch
apart, 1/4 inch down. Rows are 6 inches wide. Leaf lettuce,
sow 2 weeks before last
frost, sow seeds 1 inch apart, in each direction, 1/4 inch
down in blocks up to 3
Ft. wide.
To Start ahead;
plant in celpacs 4 weeks before last frost 1/4 inch down.
Germination: 5 days at a soil
temp. of 60 degrees. 3 days at a soil temp. of 70
degrees.
Plant sets: Plant head lettuce
1 Ft. apart at the same level they grew in pots, rows
are 18 inches wide.
Leaf lettuce plant 1 inch apart in each direction.
Fertilize: Fish emulsion one
a week, Low fertility causes bitterness.
Water: Even water, 1 inch per
week.
Days to harvest: Varies
Days to seed: Varies
Save your seed:As weather warms lettuce will
put up seed stalks. Cut an X in head lettuce
to help stalk get out.
Pollination: Self Pollinating
and perfect.
Isolation: Lettuce rarely gets
the chance to cross but should be separated by 25 Ft.
just in case.
Processing: Pick seed as it matures
and screen to clean chaff.
Seed storage Life: lettuce seed
will stay viable for 3 years if kept in a sealed
container in a dry, dark
place at 50 F.
Muskmellon
Muskmelon: (Cucumis melo)
Native to Africa and the near
east.
Annual.
18 inches tall, 3 to 12 Ft. across.
10 to 12 hours of full sun per
day min.
Rich soil.
PH: 6.0 to 6.5.
Mulch: To conserve moisture.
To control weeds.
Plant seeds: 6 seeds per hill,
1 inch down, thin to 4 plants. 6 Ft. in each direction.
Or 2 seeds 2 Ft. apart,
1 inch down. Rows are 6 Ft. apart. To start ahead, Plant 4
seeds in 4 inch pots 1/2 inch down, 2 to 4 weeks before setting out.
Do not let root ball.
Germination: 5 days at a soil
temp. of 70 degrees. 3 days at a soil temp. of 75
degrees.
Plant sets: In hills 6 Ft. apart,
or 2 Ft. apart in rows 6 Ft. apart.
Fertilize: Dig about 1 Quart
of manure or compost into hill or planting hole.
Water: Even water, 1 inch per
week.
Days to harvest: Varies
Days to seed: Varies
Storage: Melons will keep 2 to
4 weeks in the Fruit Cellar.
Storage Temp: 45 degrees F.
Storage Humidity: Moderate
Plant Chinese lantern as a trap crop for cucumber beetle. Remember the are invasive.
Most of what Americans grow and
buy are muskmelons not cantaloupes, tho botanicaly they
are the same and will cross
with each other. They will not cross with watermelon.