Most have heard of the "raised bed" in gardening.
The advantages and types are
many and ideas abound, when completed work
well for our benefit in gardens,
flowers, and landscaping.
This is a popular approach in gardening,
landscaping, and the results are
exceptional. Raised beds can be utilized
in areas where the thought of growing
plants was impractical, such as hillsides,
gardens on rooftops, and rocky areas
with very little topsoil.
The very word "raised" projects the
idea of less "bending" as in
"oh my aching back." The raised
bed is above the ground level.
The higher bed is advantageous because
of less crouching and
stooping while performing routine
garden tasks.
The drainage is much better, and this results
in an accelerated warming of the
soil and gardening can be started earlier
in the season. The soil will also dry faster
allowing work to be continued in the rainy
season. Many soils are heavy and poorly
drained, with a raised bed, roots of plants
form securely, in good soil that is possibly
not the case in some areas.
The addition of compost and other organic
substance may be
supplemented making the soil rich in nutrients
and improving its composition.
Back to top
Back to Main Page
Permanent Raised Beds
The permanent raised beds work best for most
circumstances. Mounds of earth
may be used in landscaping situations, by
using topsoil to build barriers that
reduce noise from traffic, and interesting
visual effects. The mounds of earth will
stay in place after roots of plantings have
secured the soil.
The walled raised beds, which are also permanent,
are used for vegetable gardens
as well as flowers. There will be initially,
an investment in dollars, however the
years of enjoyment and convenience will
be well worth the cost. The price tag is
encompassed in the actual labor and cost
of construction materials.
Temporary Raised Beds
Temporary raised beds, are created by the
tilling of soil which loosens and raises
the dirt above ground level. When compost
and other materials are added it
increases the height even more. Many backyard
gardeners use this simple method
successfully.
Most temporary raised beds are elementary
in structure. No construction cost is
involved, only your labor. The beds will
level off over the season and require
re-building the next year. The lack of containment
by a wall makes it likely to see
a bit of "spillover" onto the adjacent area
due to normal erosion.
Framework Choices
Appearance and availability are considered
when making the choice of
construction materials. Popular materials
are used railroad ties and treated
landscape timbers. Redwood and cedar, which
are resistant to rot, are also good
choices. There are bricks and stones along
with concrete blocks; as you can see
there are quite a few framework selections
to consider. Stone and masonry are
more expensive than products made of wood.
However, check with builder's
salvage yards, where you may fine used masonry
at a good price. Old railroad ties
that have lost most of the creosote, are
the best, the newer ones full of the
caustic substance may injure plants.
Back to top
Back to Main Page
Raised Bed Forms
Most generally, the rectangular pattern is
the most usual for raised beds. The
ground should be flattened building a base
for your soil. The width of 4 feet is an
advantageous size; this makes the center
"reachable" from each side. Timber is a
usual 4-foot length, thus reducing the labor
intensive sawing that is required for
adjustment. Shorter beds help to prevent
soil compaction, and allow for movement
in and around the garden area for wheelbarrows
and such.
Most plants will need at least 6-12 inches
to root properly, consequently, adjust the
depth of your bed accordingly. Beds of 18
inches and higher will need a retaining wall.
To build the retaining wall of your choice,
look for detailed plans and designs in
publications at your local garden supply
store.
Soil
If your topsoil is good, this may be used
in the raised bed, however mix it with organic
matter especially if there is a lot of clay
or sand in the soil. Decomposed manure, peat
moss, and compost are good sources of organic
matter.
Dig by hand, or till the base soil before
adding additional organic matter.
If soil is brought in, mix well into the
existing soil. Different soil from unlike
areas, if not mixed well, can create blockage,
which will not allow water to absorb
well, and roots will not grow readily.
Fertilize the soil with a 10-10-10 and apply
at the rate of 1-2 pounds per 100
square feet. It is always a good idea to
have the soil tested in order to use a
more specific fertilizer combination.