This is a popular approach in gardening, landscaping, and the results are
   exceptional. Raised beds can be utilized in areas where the thought of growing
   plants was impractical, such as hillsides, gardens on rooftops, and rocky areas
   with very little topsoil. 

   The very word "raised" projects  the idea of less "bending" as in  
   "oh my aching back."  The raised   bed is above the ground level.
   The higher bed is advantageous  because of less crouching and
   stooping while performing  routine garden tasks. 

   The drainage is much better, and this results in an accelerated warming of the 
   soil and gardening can be started earlier in the season. The soil will also dry faster 
   allowing work to be continued in the rainy season. Many soils are heavy and poorly 
   drained, with a raised bed, roots of plants form securely, in good soil that is possibly 
   not the case  in some areas. 
   The addition of compost and other organic substance may be
   supplemented making the soil rich in nutrients and improving its composition. 

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   Permanent Raised Beds 

   The permanent raised beds work best for most circumstances. Mounds of earth
   may be used in landscaping situations, by using topsoil to build barriers that
   reduce noise from traffic, and interesting visual effects. The mounds of earth will
   stay in place after roots of plantings have secured the soil. 

   The walled raised beds, which are also permanent, are used for vegetable gardens
   as well as flowers. There will be initially, an investment in dollars, however the
   years of enjoyment and convenience will be well worth the cost. The price tag is
   encompassed in the actual labor and cost of construction materials. 

   Temporary Raised Beds 

   Temporary raised beds, are created by the tilling of soil which loosens and raises
   the dirt above ground level. When compost and other materials are added it
   increases the height even more. Many backyard gardeners use this simple method
   successfully. 

   Most temporary raised beds are elementary in structure. No construction cost is
   involved, only your labor. The beds will level off over the season and require
   re-building the next year. The lack of containment by a wall makes it likely to see
   a bit of "spillover" onto the adjacent area due to normal erosion. 

   Framework Choices 

   Appearance and availability are considered when making the choice of
   construction materials. Popular materials are used railroad ties and treated
   landscape timbers. Redwood and cedar, which are resistant to rot, are also good
   choices. There are bricks and stones along with concrete blocks; as you can see
   there are quite a few framework selections to consider. Stone and masonry are
   more expensive than products made of wood. However, check with builder's
   salvage yards, where you may fine used masonry at a good price. Old railroad ties
   that have lost most of the creosote, are the best, the newer ones full of the
   caustic substance may injure plants. 

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   Raised Bed Forms 

   Most generally, the rectangular pattern is the most usual for raised beds. The
   ground should be flattened building a base for your soil. The width of 4 feet is an
   advantageous size; this makes the center "reachable" from each side. Timber is a
   usual 4-foot length, thus reducing the labor intensive sawing that is required for
   adjustment. Shorter beds help to prevent soil compaction, and allow for movement
   in and around the garden area for wheelbarrows and such. 

   Most plants will need at least 6-12 inches to root properly, consequently, adjust the
   depth of your bed accordingly. Beds of 18 inches and higher will need a retaining wall.
   To build the retaining wall of your choice, look for detailed plans and designs in
   publications at your local garden supply store. 

   Soil 

   If your topsoil is good, this may be used in  the raised bed, however mix it with organic
   matter especially if there is a lot of clay or sand in the soil. Decomposed manure, peat
   moss, and compost are good sources of organic matter. 
   Dig by hand, or till the base soil before adding additional organic matter. 
   If soil is brought in, mix well into the existing soil. Different soil from unlike
   areas, if not mixed well, can create blockage, which will not allow water to absorb
   well, and roots will not grow readily. 

   Fertilize the soil with a 10-10-10 and apply at the rate of 1-2 pounds per 100
   square feet. It is always a good idea to have the soil tested in order to use a
   more specific fertilizer combination. 

                                        Author's name omitted by request